Southern Europe - Day 26

The Pyrenees.

We drove up into Andorra today and over the Pas de la Casa down into France. Up on top the snow was thick and a few people were skiing but the lifts weren't running and there were no real pistes yet. I guess we're still a little early for the season in these mountains.
The Pyrenees are pretty but I prefer the Alps. Andorra is picturesque enough although perhaps I'd feel a little claustrophobic in Andorra de Velle - the capital - as it is surrounded on all sides by sheer mountains with no view across anywhere to speak of.

We're in France now, still in the Pyrenees, and camped in a little aire. The French really do free camping well.

Cali comment: it's 8.5 degrees outside now and only 6.30pm. It could get pretty chilly tonight! But if it does we'll simply sleep downstairs with the heater on! Cosy!

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Southern Europe - Day 25

Barcelona.

Today we spent the day and evening exploring the city of Barcelona. We took a bus into the city from the campsite - a mere €3 for an hour's ride - and were dumped off in the centre of the city.

From there we hoped on the open topped city touring buses and circumnavigated the city. We jumped off at a few spots around the city for a better look at some sights.

Our first stop was the Sagrada Familia, the basillica designed by Antoni Gaudi. Started at the end of the 19th century it is not due for completion till the middle of this century. The inside was recently finished (it wasn't last time I was here in 2005) and so this time last year was consecrated by the Pope. This is one of the most magnificent and unusual churches I've ever seen. It's the icon of Barcelona and really amazing to look around. We wandered the interior and took the lift 65m up to the top of the completed towers for views across the city. Spectacular.

Next we hopped off the bus at the Park Guell where Gaudi lived. Guell was his main patron and this park one of his most impressive works.

The bus took us all around the city to the Neu Camp (which we couldn't look around as Barce had a home game), the Olympic Stadium and many other sights. We stopped off at the Spanish Village which was built for the 1929 exhibition taking example building styles from all regions of Spain. It's very quiet and there are loads of traders practising their crafts here. We watched a master glass blower making horses and cats and swans with amazing dexterity.

Then it was down to the port and the bottom of La Rambla, the main drag through the city. This was heaving with people, ice cream stands and stalls selling all sorts of Christmas goodies. It had a real vibe to it.

From there we dropped into the gothic quarter and had a wander around the cathedral and grabbed some tapas. Then back to La Rambla for a wander around a huge open air market and then some gofre (waffle with ice cream) and a sit down to watch the world go by.
Finally it was time to get the night bus home for a good sleep.

Barcelona: 8/10.






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Southern Europe - Day 24

A driving day.

We really didn't do anything today other than drive from Valencia to Sitges just outside of Barcelona.

We did take a quick drive around the F1 track in Valencia as we set off which was weird as the F1 track is painted onto the road surface and they stick concrete lumps down to make the normal road lanes - roads which have no markings on them. It's very disorientating.

Cali comment: Silver is a great colour for touring. 4 weeks of hard driving and although no longer shiny it doesn't look filthy as any other colour would my now.
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Southern Europe - Day 22

A cracking day sightseeing Valencia.

We spent today seeing the sights of Valencia. It was a swift 6 mile bike ride into the city on well defined, well maintained bike tracks. This took us straight to the 'Ciudad de las Artes y las Ciencias' (City of Arts and Sciences). This is a wonderful collection of buildings of quirky design which host a massive IMAX cinema, a science museum and a huge Oceanographic centre.

As we pulled up to the area it was packed with people, roads were closed and a loud speaker announcer was in full flow. Turned out that we'd arrived on the day the Valencia marathon was being run and the finish line was right in the centre of this attraction and the winning athletes were just coming in! Good timing!

We watched a few people cross the line then moved off to the Oceanographic centre where we watched a very impressive dolphin show and then wandered around the huge aquariums there, seeing walrus, seals, penguins, baluga whales, sharks, stingray, moray eels, turtles, jelly fish, sea dragons and all manner of fish. Its quite an amazing set up actually and easy to spend many hours there.

We went from there on further into old Valencia for a look at some of their old buildings. Central Valencia is all high buildings and small alleyways making it easy to get lost but we found our way to most sights we wanted to see. We also had time for a bite to eat in one of the many cafes.

Next we cycled back through the park to the Science Museum. The park is a neat feature of the city. It wends its way through the city like a river, with many bridges crossing it. I wonder if it even used to be a river which has since been drained - something to look up when we get home (unless anyone wants to reply here and let us know?). Its full of green spaces, bike tracks, fountains, orange trees and joggers and is a really pleasant place to stroll, run or ride.

In the Science museum we didn't have much time so it was straight to the top floor and the zero G simulator which wasn't much of a simulator really but did manage to make you disoriented in a similar way. There was also a flight simulator which simulated a visit to and from the International Space Station. That was quite cool although Mrs Blakey had to skip that bit due to being pregnant.

We ran out of daylight and so didn't get time to visit the marina or the F1 track but might do a drive by tomorrow morning on our way to Barcelona.

All in all Valencia was a cool place. We didn't see too much of the city itself as the Arts and Science 'city' takes loads of time - but it's now one of the city's main attractions. Another place I think we'd come back to.

Cali comment: discovered today that the bed will happily sit in the 'up' position with a duvet and 2 pillows still laid out in sleeping position. There is no need to shift them all to the back. This will be very helpful when staying in one place - but is less so for us at the moment as we are moving on nearly every day so need to bring duvets and pillows down to actually put the roof down.
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Southern Europe - Day 22

Costa Blanca.

Quite a change to the Costa del Sol although to be fair we only paid a visit to Benidorm so I'm not sure we got a fair view.

It was a driving day today with the only goal being getting to Valencia before the sun set so we could spend a few hours sitting out in it. That we achieved even with dropping into the most popular Spanish resort of the 70's.

Benidorm is all high rises clustered around a crescent moon bay. The beach is all man made and not brilliant. It is full of retired brown and wrinkly people with big beer bellies. We hardly saw a single young Spanish person there. We ate our sandwiches on the beach and pressed on. Hmmmm.

Bonus for the last two days: 20-25 degree heat and virtually no clouds at all. Its been lovely! Sadly we've spent a fair amount of that time in the van travelling, but it beats rain!

Cali comment: the front windscreen blind goes in really easily if you get out and push it in through the side door. Took us 2 weeks to figure that out! They could do with making it easier and somehow more built in like the other blinds.

Tomorrow: taking the bikes into Valencia for the day. No driving!

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Southern Europe - Day 21

Costa del Sol.

We drove from Estepona to Almeria today all along the Costa del Sol. The place is beautiful where unspoilt and generally pretty smart where the resorts are. We took a stroll around Peurte Banus and loved the marina with its expensive yachts. I guess they do touring like us, just a lot more upmarket and with more champagne. Banus is where I went on my stag weekend and it was good to return and show Mrs Blakey the sights. Well some of them anyway! She agreed it was nicer than Birmingham where she'd had her get away.

We also dropped into Torrequebrada where our neighbours own a place. Very nice resort indeed and we did lunch on the sea front there watching a small left hand point break going off in front of us. Too small to ride even if I had my board.

We liked the Costa del Sol and can see why people come here on holiday.

Cali comment: I sometimes wish the Cali had nicer looking wooden cupboards and curtains. I see some internal finishes on similar priced campers and think they look much cosier. But the Cali is extremely practical. Curtains get dirty and need cleaning and take up lots of space in the van. Whereas the built in Cali blinds simply work really well.

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Southern Europe - Day 20

The day we almost got to Africa.

We've turned north this afternoon after spending most of the day in Gibraltar.

We woke on the outskirts of Cadiz and crossed the huge bridge to check the place out. We totally failed to find parking as the place was rammed so we didn't stay. We did take a mad tour of the cobbled lanes inside the city walls in the van before finding our way out again though. Liked the place and would have liked to have stayed and properly explored it.

Next stop was 80 miles south east - the British colony of Gibraltar. A very interesting place and a bit quirky. All the road signs, the road markings, the traffic lights, even the bins are English, yet they drive on the right which is a bit strange. The place is hugely built up with one local telling us property was really expensive to buy or rent - due to the lack of space.

After a lunch stop on the southern tip looking over Africa in the distance we took the cable car to the top. There we saw the famous "apes" of Gibraltar that are actually a rare breed of tail-less monkey. They're very cool, climbing and jumping on everything including the visitors. Suffice to say before long they decided to jump on us too.

We experienced a cool phenomenon on the top of the rock - the easterly winds brought warm wet air off the Med and sent them straight up the 423m sheer face of the rock where they literally turned to clouds right in front of our faces. I know the theory but to see it in action right there at cloud level was something exceptional.

After exploring the rock and playing with the monkeys for a while we wandered into town. Gibraltar's high street could be any pedestrianised English high street with M&S adjacent to Next and BHS. We stopped for a coffee (sadly no real ale seems to get out there) in a very English pub and chatted to a few locals for a bit.

Definitely Gibraltar is very unusual and somewhere I've never been anywhere like before.

From there we drove onto the Costa del Sol and parked up in a very small, plush shopping centre we found in the dark. We spotted a few motor homes parked there surrounded by uplit palm trees and decided to join them. Getting out and looking around we realised we're about three foot from the beach! We cooked a chili and munched it and then took a wander around the shopping centre not quite sure what to expect.

Wow. This place has its own beach, pool, beach side bars and restaurants but we were the only ones here. It looks like a posh beach hotel complex only it's all free! We found one restaurant which was open and were invited in by the italian owner from Rome who we spent some time drinking a few beers with. No one else was around. What a top place to find for some free camping!

Cali comment for the day: we wish the carpet at the front didn't exist but they'd carried the excellent rubber floor through to the cockpit. As this is supposed to be a camping vehicle, why have carpet up front? We have some mats but it seems silly that we need them.

Tomorrow: Costa del Sol. I suspect it's gonna rain.
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Southern Europe - Day 19

Brilliant day today covering 2 countries and one superb city. And the sun shone bright and hot all day.

We woke in Portugal but quickly were on the road and into Spain. We headed for Cadiz on the coast and TomTom routed us via Sevilla. When we reached Sevilla we figured we'd have a peek about the place but almost gave up when parking was a struggle. Then we found an area of open ground and free parking so were set. And we're so glad we did!

Sevilla's central area is mostly pedestrianised. Apart from the horse drawn carts and trams of course. Once in the centre we quickly decided that paying for a horse drawn tour of the main sights was more value than going into the cathedral and the castle and about the same price. It was a luxury sitting back and being taken around the city with the sun on our faces and seeing all the attractions the city had to offer.

The Plaza de Espana was absolutely stunning. It was built in 1929 as much of Sevilla's important buildings appear to have been, for the Ibero-American Exhibition. It has an array of fountains and bridges and looked glorious in the afternoon sun.

We finished our horse drawn tour back at the cathedral where we indulged in some scrumptious tapas sitting outside being baked by the sun. Lovely!

From there we wandered through the old quarters of Santa Cruz down to the world famous bull ring and took the tour. What a fascinating place. We would both dearly love to come back and watch a bull fight one day, although Mrs Blakey would be cheering for bulls.

Sevilla was a wonderful city. Easy to get around - the bike tracks are everywhere - and well kept besides. It really notices that we've left Portugal behind.

Cali thought for the day: I'm impressed with the tailgate. We have two bikes on there with the default VW bike rack and the tail gate holds them up without needing help. It just sits at 90 degrees no problems.

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Southern Europe - Day 18

The last of the Algarve, the last of Portugal.

We finished seeing the last of Portugal today. We started off with Faro, visiting the Ilha which sticks out into the sea beyond the airport. Bizarrely enough we stopped at the very same bar I'd visited 18 months earlier on rugby tour. At last a place I recognised!

The ilha was a big sand bar so big it has a causeway road out to it and numerous bars and cafés on it. The beach there is massive but not really any different to all the others we'd been to this tour.

From Faro we drove to Tavira and stopped for lunch. This was a pretty riverside town with the ubiquitous fort and cobbled streets. It also had an ilha (sand bar) we drove out to. Would probably have been lovely in the summer. Was deserted and bleak in the winter.

From there we drove on to Vila Real San Antonio which is right on the border with Spain. We're camped in a big car park on the river front along with a veritable village of motor homes. And it's a little scummy. But hey, it's free. The other side of the river is Spain and we'll be heading there tomorrow.

Cali comment: we've just realised our battery charger isn't working. When plugged into the mains the leisure battery doesn't recharge and the charging symbol isn't displayed. I don't think it's ever worked. Not been any issue so far as we've only got the leisure battery down to 60% worst case when staying in Luz for 2 days - when we were on a mains and should have been charging. As we're touring and thus driving most days the alternator is doing the job of topping it up. Fortunately it'll be under warranty so one to sort when we get home.
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Southern Europe - Day 17

A busy, varied day today.

We spent the night overlooking the Atlantic on a cliff top. The views were spectacular and the waves crashed below us all night. We didn't have the best of sleep though as we were totally isolated in the middle of nowhere. Yet at a little past midnight a car rolled up and then shortly left again. That was a bit strange and a little unnerving. Then at 2.30am a dustbin lorry turned up! It just turned around and left too. Really weird indeed. Suffice to say sleep was a little hard to come by thereafter and we're a bit knackered today. Still, the sun rise over the Atlantic and breakfast on the cliff top in the morning sun made up for it.

First thing we drove into Albufeira - the number one package holiday destination on the Algarve; and you can see why. It's picturesque with loads and loads of cafe bars and restaurants everywhere. I toured here for a weekend with my rugby club in 2010, yet after spending half a day in the town today I didn't recognise a single place! I can only guess we drank in a different part of the town on tour. Or Mrs Blakey's theory is that I was simply too drunk to remember anywhere when on rugby tour. Hmmm...

One thing we have really noted about Portugal this tour is that it's poor. The whole place is shabby, often derelict, and covered in graffiti. Everywhere needs a clean and a lick of paint. Even down here on the Algarve, as soon as you're out of the resort centre it looks shabby.

After Albufiera we drove to Vilamoura to look around the marina. As we pulled off the main road into this town everything changed. This is the golfing capital of the Algarve and it was gorgeous. Palm tree lined roads, surrounded by lush golf courses, led into a lovely, clean, modern town sprinkled with 4 star hotels. The place was almost immaculate. We drove down to the marina and parked up. Walking to the marina was a little like Cannes in France but not quite as rich.

We dropped into "Sete" (seven) which is Luis Figo's bar on the marina front for a drink. Quite a place which has no wallpaper but instead is wall to wall photos of Figo with famous people. Sadly the great man was absent so no team photo was forth coming.

The prices in the marina bars and cafes were surprisingly cheap for such a place apart from the odd champagne bar. I'd love to go drinking here in the summer!

As soon as we left Vilamoura we were instantly back into shabby Portugal again. We're now camped up and looking for an early night - after a curry, a beer and a spot of Spooks on the laptop I think!

Cali comment: when wild camping last night we decided to sleep downstairs. This was to keep the noise of the waves down and perhaps to keep a bit more inconspicuous with the roof down. It was definitely warmer and quieter but was much less comfy with breaks in the cushions, a bit stuffy with less air flow and skinnier at 6" smaller in width. But it did the job and makes a great back up bed. If I were sleeping there every night I'd buy a mattress topper. We'll be back upstairs tonight.
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Southern Europe - Day 16

Back on the road again.

This morning it was chucking it down with rain and we made a lazy start of it. Eventually we got going and took a quick stroll around Lagos town centre which was pretty enough inside the old walls.

From there it was inland and on to Silves where there is an extremely well preserved 11th century castle built by the Moors. We wandered around there for a bit and took in the views on all sides.

Then it was back to the coast. We stopped for a coffee in a beach side bar in the late afternoon sunshine and watched lines of 2' clean waves roll in. Amazingly there was no one out there. Not for the first time this tour I wished I had my longboard with me.

Next it was time to find a camp site for the night. We figured we'd like to wild camp so we took the coast road towards Albufeira looking for a nice beach. We found only one which let campers stay and there was no one there but us so we pulled up. We're sat on a cliff top spur with stunning views across the sea to east, south and west. It was too dark to get a good photo when we camped up but hopefully tomorrow we will.

Cali thought: loved the outdoor table yesterday. Such a simple design to hide it in the door panel. And it was sturdy, solid and easy to use. Only complaint is that the door well gets used to store dirty shoes a lot so the table top was also dirty. However it cleans up really easily with a detol wipe.

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Southern Europe - Day 15

Saturday 19th November 2011. A day of rest.

We did pretty much stuff all today. Just sat around the lovely campsite reading our books and chilling out. We got the awning out on the Cali for the first time and also the outdoor table and chairs.

We took a little stroll into the local village just to stretch our legs. There were loads of derelict houses for sale alongside some really nicely done up ones. They made a strange comparison. It was interesting to see what was probably a typical Portuguese village and wander around it.

Cali thought: we found the awning really good. It was easy to get out and set up (once we'd really figured it out) and easy to put away too. When the winds picked up it flapped about loads so we took it down. Would love to hear anyone's experiences of the awning in high winds..?

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Southern Europe - Day 14

Today was spent exploring the beaches of southern Algarve from Sagres to Lagos. The first half of this coastline is in one of the ubiquitous national parks and so still undeveloped. The second half is notably different as all the cafe side signs and menus change to English and full cooked breakfast is offered everywhere. You're suddenly into the resorts.

Whilst still in the park we found a secluded beach which took a twenty minute walk to reach from a tiny side road. Not surprisingly we were the only ones there. If the weather had been better we could definitely have spent the day there.

The coastline around Lagos is all sandstone and massively eroded leading to spectacular cliff edges and rock towers. The grottos are a particular tourist spot and they are stunning. It's one great advantage of coming here in November that there was virtually no one there.

We have camped up in a 4 star campsite on the edge of Luz. This place is amazing. The pool looks gorgeous although it's not heated. The grounds are spacious and sheltered. And the facilities are easily the best I have ever seen in a campsite. They would suit a 4 star hotel they are so good.

The place is full of English motorhomes and Winibegos - there is a real community of ex pats here who live on the site through the winter. And I can see why. its something we might seriously consider I think!

That ends the first half of our tour and it's been great so far. Tomorrow starts the second half but I think we'll probably spend a day or two chilling out here in Luz. Its too nice not to.

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Southern Europe - Days 12 and 13

Finally: Scorchio!

Spent the last 2 days hanging around Sagres in true surf bum style. This place is a Mecca for surfers and the place is packed with beaten up old vans with every beach having half a dozen or more parked up in the car parks. Lots of people here are clearly just living on the beach fronts. Looks like a fantastically free way to live. But then it's been 22+ celsius and a ten foot swell so we're catching it at a good time.

Yesterday we went and watched some guys surfing 10'+ waves just north of here. Saw someone get barrelled for the first time. Pretty awesome sight. It was cool to sit out on the headland almost at the lineup and watch them do their stuff.

Today we found a sheltered cove with a 4' swell and spent the day on the beach. I hired a 7' foamy. Far too small for me. It was a bit of a mare but I had fun and caught a few nice rides. Would have loved a longboard but I don't think it would go in the van! Might try tomorrow as I think the plan is much of the same. It's good to be based somewhere for a short while. Mrs Blakey was sunning herself on the beach - it's biki weather here - and moaning about not being able to bodyboard this year.

Cali comment: there are loads of em here! Every other surf van is a VW (of course) and every third VW is a Cali. We still have the only British one I've seen so far but there have been ones from Italy, Germany, France and Portugal.

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Southern Europe - Day 11

We've got as far west as we're going to get.

We're sat in a carpark on a wind swept headland just outside Sagres, with sea on both sides of us. This is the far most south westerly point of Portugal and probably the furthest from home we'll be all tour. We're in the Algarve and the home of Portuguese surf. Sadly it's gone flat.

Had a 200 mile drive down today. Pretty easy going on the motorway. It was almost boring compared to the mountain roads of the last few days.

Sagres is undeveloped and wild - especially compared to Lisbon yesterday. We've had a wander down town and there's not much there. It reminds me strongly of Lacanau and Hossegor in France.

Hoping tomorrow there's some swell as this will probably be my last chance for some waves this tour.

Cali wise - the seats should be patterned to stop water stains showing so much. Hopefully the Super Guard will do it's trick when we get home.

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Southern Europe - Day 10

Lisbon is grimy.

I don't think it helps that neither of us are really city people nor that we had a bad night sleep last night what with the main road, aeroplanes and thunder storms, but we really didn't like Lisbon.

It's dirty - not from a rubbish point of view but as in everywhere feels like it could do with a sugar soap and a lick of paint.

There's not much to see in terms of architecture. A huge earthquake and tidal wave devastated the city in 1755 and so there is virtually nothing which pre dates that. A few notable exceptions exist like the small cathedral and the castle on the hill - which of course we peeked at - but that's about it.

I think it would have felt very much different on a warm summer evening when the bars, restaurants and clubs would be humming but today it was just a bit flat.

One highlight of the day was the pastel de nata - the custard tart which is the famous desert of the country. It was delicious.

Cali thought for the day: the front cab area should have lights powered off the leisure battery like the rest of the van and the radio should also be powered off the leisure battery so you can use it when camped up.
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Southern Europe - Day 9

A religious day today.

Well it is Sunday and all these places are free on a Sunday. We began the day in Tomar a place which we'd gone to because of the castle of the Knights Templar and my love of things historical, especially things from the times of the Crusades. We weren't expecting anything of the town but were hugely impressed.

A stroll round town last night and it was nice enough to sit outside and sup a few beers. Then a chinese which was massive. We did contemplate "black pudding rice with turnip growths" but were too hungry to risk not liking it.

Anyway, having seen the town last night - and loved it - all we had planned for this morning was a look around the castle and attached monastery. The castle was build in the 12th century
and the monastery added on from about the 15th century. It was a huge labyrinthine place, easy to get lost in. The central chapel dating from the 12th century was in near perfect condition with colourful murals still on all the walls. It took us nearly 2 hours to see the place to our satisfaction and even Mrs Blakey really enjoyed the visit - these places definitely being more my thing than hers.

As we left Tomar we detoured briefly to see the Pegoes aqueduct which fed the castle. A 17th century feat of engineering which was incredible to see.

From there we set our TomTom to Lisbon via Fatima and as the afternoon wore on we arrived at the sight of the apparitions of Mary to three shepard children as recently as 1917. Its quite a sight with the plaza in front of the basilica being twice the size of St. Peters Square in Rome - where we visited on tour last year. In 1972 they built a new church on the site opposite the basilica. This church seats 9000 people - an amazing sight although it looks a bit like a conference hall inside. Its very modern with zero character.

All in all the thing which most struck me as we walked back to the van was that every shop in town was full of religious memorabilia. It seems a shame that a place that could and should feel somehow special and holy seems instead to be dominated by people trying to cash in on the apparitions and make money from them. Its all a bit seedy to me.

From Fatima we drove the 100 miles or so south to Lisbon in the dark but were rewarded with a stunning sound and light show as we drove through a massive electrical storm. Somehow this felt more religious and primal than a bunch of shops selling plastic figurines.

Cali thought for the day: we reckon they should have split the cover which tops the cooker and sink. It would make dinner prep and washing up much easier if you could independently drop each one.

Tomorrow: Lisbon.

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Southern Europe - Day 8

A day of contrasts.

For a change I'm going to start with the Cali comment. Last night up in the mountains it started to really blow. About 4am we both woke up with the van being shaken by the high winds. Up in the roof where we were sleeping the canvas was snapping around violently. At best that was the end of any sleep, at worst we felt the canvas might rip. No worries - the Cali has a bed downstairs too. It only took us 10 minutes to throw the duvet and pillows downstairs, clear all the crap off the parcel shelf and fold out the bed. 5 minutes later we had the roof down and were tucked up and cosy. Downstairs is a smidge smaller but plenty spacious enough and loads warmer with its double glazing than the roof bed with it's tent material. We had a lovely few hours more sleep. A massive plus for the ultra versatile Cali compared to our old A-Team van.

The day dawned with high grey clouds, good visibility but cold. A good day to explore the mountains we were in. We drove up and up and up into the mountains with some spectacular views. It was chilly in the winds but the sun would occasionally peak through and it wasn't raining.

We drove up a stunning glacial valley to the highest peak in Portugal - Torre which means Tower. It is so named because it stands 1993 meters high and some numpty thought that by building a 7 meter tall tower on the top that would make the peak 2000m high. Only in Portugal. Also only in Portugal can you drive to the top and there find a supermarket selling fluffy slippers. The views on the way up are breath taking. Craggy out crops drop off to waterfalls and jagged peaks and paths. The top itself is a massive let down - a roundabout, 2 supermarkets and a ski lift. The wind was whipping across the summit and wind chill left us freezing. There was snow on the top - not surprising in November I guess. But not much.

From there we dropped 1500m down and 100 miles south to Tomar a town at about the half way point of the country. This place is an ancient medieval town and the castle here holds the first seat of the Knights Templar - a visit for tomorrow. Down this low the temperature hit 24 degrees as the sun really broke through this afternoon. Bliss.

We did go to a campsite in the hills above Tomar but the place was a dive. Not something to bother us usually but we needed to do some washing and recharge the laptop. We skipped out of there and chanced our arm at a site in Tomar town centre as reported by the Caravan Club book which Mrs Blakey's mum and dad had lent us. What a massive result. This place is beautiful, quiet and the staff are hugely helpful. They've given us a run down on where to go in the town and what to see. They are going to do our washing for us tomorrow whilst we go see the castle and town. And we can leave the van here whilst we do. Superb. So thanks Mr and Mrs P!

We're camped up in the town now and as it's Saturday night it's time for beers and a curry in town I think!

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Southern Europe - Day 7

A long rainy day.

We woke up on the banks of the Douro on the edge of Porto. The rains had set in and they were set for the day. Determined to ignore the weather we set off along the banks of the river to the picturesque town of Amarante where we feasted on pastry slices and hot drinks looking at the rain on the river. Amarante was pretty and would no doubt have been lovely in the sunshine. We dropped into the church which was the one building of any note and had a look round then it was back to the van and onwards.

We followed the Douro valley along a very long windy road with some spectacular views across the river valley and all the vineyards where the port grapes are grown. They looked very seasonal in rows of autumn golds and reds.

From there we dropped south into another national park where we camped up for the night.

Its pretty much rained all day today which has been frustrating but being British we're used to it!

Cali thought for the day: the van drives like a car. A big car maybe but basically a car all the same. It was easy to drive the windy roads today with the solid suspension and car like wheel. Add to that the driving height and it is easier to see over the spray on wet roads. I'd rather be driving it than a car or a motorhome. And I can't even imagine towing a caravan some of the places TomTom has taken us this week!
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Southern Europe - Day 6

Day 6 already?

A cracking day today. Weather okay in the morning and glorious by the afternoon. Today has been Porto. Or more accurately Vila Nova de Gaia which is the other side of the Douro river from Porto and where all the big port houses are based.

We stopped at a local campsite and were about to check in when we spoke to an English couple who'd been on tour for the last three and a half years! They pointed us to an ayre on the edge of town which was right by the side of the Rio Douro. We're so glad we took their advice. The spot we're writing this from is stunning.

From our camping spot we biked into Gaia. Gaia is very steep and the port houses are all at the top of the hillside. We biked up three hills before we found Taylors which we were aiming for. Good job by the 4 months pregnant Mrs Blakey. But the effort was rewarded with a free tour of the wine house. Even if it was in Portugese. Anyway they gave us 'Chip Dry Port' to start off which we drank overlooking the city below and then Late Bottled Vintage as we did the tour. That was well worth the bike ride up. Especially as Mrs Blakey isn't drinking so I had four free glasses!

From Taylors we dropped down to the riverside and peddled over the Ponte dom Luis I and into Porto proper. Again its flippin hilly and we couldn't be bothered to try climbing up to the few sights in the upper city so we turned along the riverside to the Ribeira river front and dropped into one of the many cafe bars. I demonstrated excellent Portuguese by ordering a large beer in fluent native tongue but the water was obviously not from round these parts as he asked if I'd like mine with milk and sugar. Fortunately he understood English and my beer was sorted.

From there we took a long leisurely ride back to our base to watch the sunset over the Atlantic. We cooked sausage ragu and ate it alfresco overlooking Porto's lights across the Douro. Pretty perfect end to a top day.

Cali thought: the van is 100% self-contained meaning there's really no difference to camping where we are now, right on the banks of a picturesque river, compared to at an ugly campsite. Only difference is it's €20 cheaper here. Love it.
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Southern Europe - Day 5

We squeezed a lot in today.

First thing it was damp and dreary so we decided against hanging around the national park and headed for Braga. So I never got to take on that trail again on my bike.

Braga is the religious capital of Portugal and the Church of Bom Jesus is apparently the most photographed church in the country. We added to the numbers today. We also climbed the 250+ steps from the bottom to the foot of the church, passing the stations of the cross along the way. Pretty impressive stuff. The park around the outside was also impressive including many pretty trails, a grotto and a boating pond which looked resplendent in autumn colours.

From here we dropped into Braga itself and looked around as the sun came out. A small and pretty city with a cathedral and all manor of churches. It was a nice place to explore and we spent a few hours there.

From here we decided to whiz up to mount Penha over looking Guimaraes and catch the sunset. There are some awesome views from up there which the camera on my phone doesn't do justice.

Then we chased the sun to the sea as it hid away for the night. We're now camped on the beach in Aquila just north of Porto. Looking forward to visiting the city of vihno verdi tomorrow.

Today I noticed both wing mirrors on the Cali were the same size unlike the old T5. This makes driving on the continent much easier as your outside mirror is actually helpful. Yes I'm that sad.
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Southern Europe - Day 4

A really long day today.

We got up to a beautiful sunny morning in coastal Gijon, Spain and ended it in the mountainous Portugese national park listening to the rains lashing down on the van.

First thing I had in mind for this morning was catching a wave. Well Shreddies more truthfully but then a wave. But when we got to the beach the four foot lines of last night had been replaced by one foot slop. 4 people did go out in the 2 hours we kicked around the city but they didn't catch a piddler between them. I didn't waste my cash hiring a board. Very disappointing.

The city was worth a look around though but by midday we needed to get going as we still had a 5 hour drive ahead to get to Portugal and the national park. The surfers still hadn't caught one ride.

The 5 hour drive started badly when TomTom didn't know how to get out of Gijon. So we resorted to the crazy plan of following road signs. Only to discover the Spanish are crap at road signs.

Eventually we found our way into the Picos de Europa - the mountains south of Gijon (Thanks Luke for being our email encyclopedia again!). They were stunning. Snow topped, craggy and sun kissed. It was like being in the Alps again. Beautiful.

We couldn't stop too long though as we had a lot of driving to do so we pushed on for the next five hours of varied terrain across northern Spain. As we headed south the weather turned nastier and as we hit Portugal the rains and fog set in and darkness fell. But we only had 5 miles to go till we reached the campsite according to TomTom.

Sometimes sat nav is brilliant. Sometimes its the spawn of the devil. Tonight it was the latter. As we pulled into a road signposted to our campsite with 4 miles to go we felt we were nearly home. Till we saw the "road" it was taking us down.

This "road" was nothing more than a rutted, pot holed, flooded, van breaking fire trail in a forested mountain side. In the dark. With fog for a side dish. It was to dangerous to get out of 2nd gear so we bounced and span and guessed our way down this track at cycling speeds hoping we didn't fall off the track or bottom out or break down. Some 15 minutes of hell later we found the campsite - just off a main road. Today TomTom was devil spawn.

But tomorrow I'm seriously tempted to ride that 4 mile trail on my mountain bike - I reckon it could prove quite a challenge!

Finishing on a high note as usual: the Cali fridge is superb. We only have it on 3/10 but its as cold as our fridge at home. Our milk we brought from the Uk 4 days ago is still ice cold and fresh. And the top loading nature and height means you can really easily get stuff in and out. Love it.

Tomorrow we'll get to see what this national park looks like. And I might have to ride the road to hell.
Sent from my ZX Spectrum.

Southern Europe - Day 3

Nobody ever mentions the weather can make or break your day.

Well okay, Oasis did. This morning it was hacking it down - the heaviest rain we've seen this tour so far. We drove from Biarritz into Spain, only really noticing we'd changed countries because the road signs had changed language. The rain was pouring and the roads passed by San Sebastian, Bilbao and Santander; all of which are industrial cities. It was pretty grim.

After lunch we drove on along the coast road and out of the industrial areas into the countryside and the clouds cleared. Beautiful clear skies greeted us as we found Gijon on the north coast. So much nicer than the other cities.

Gijon sports a stunning university which we cycled past to get into town. From there we passed the 'premiere league' stadium of Real Sporting de Gijon. According to google they're being 'real sporting' in defence this season and are lying in 17th place. Not far from there we hit the sea and a big surprise: waves!

I didn't expect anything on the north coast but there it was. A half moon bay, beach break, right in the city. The sun disappearing behind sea front buildings shone down on some really nice lines. Maybe 4' on a set and dead clean. Fabulous. I found a surf shop which hires on the sea front. I'm going to see if I can't add Spain to my list of countries surfed tomorrow! Bonus!

From there we biked back up the hill to our campsite. Its now time to settle down to some grub and the obligatory ale.

Oh, Cali thought for the day: it does sport a serious lack of hooks in the back of the van. This makes hanging washing lines difficult inside the van. The old Kombi had them all over the place - as I'd screwed them into the walls everywhere. Slightly disappointing.
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Southern Europe - Day 2

A driving day.

Left Blois and drove 380 miles down to Biarritz and the border with Spain. The rain has drizzled down again today and its been a bit of a slog really. But we've crossed France in 2 days which was the plan. And the town of Blois last night was a bonus.

Hit a proper campsite tonight so we could have a hot shower and the site in question had an outdoor pool which we felt we just had to use. Just us two, the rain and a big pool. Really excellent way to end the day.

Cali observation of the day: the roof bed is awesome! Its massively more spacious than the Reimo roof bed and much more comfortable. Seems wider as the mattress goes right to the walls. It takes longer to put up because its electric but you're only pushing a button so no big deal. The roof almost hits the bikes when on the bike rack but we have 1cm clearance which is all we need! Had a fantastic nights sleep in there last night.
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Southern Europe - Day 1

A good start to the tour.

We caught the 10.20am Eurotunnel and were in France just before noon local time. A dull, dreary and drizzly day but seeing as all we had to do today was cover some miles that was fine.

We hit Northern France and within minutes were in the Sommes. Very tempting to stop and look around but that will wait for another day.

TomTom routed us south west and before we knew it we were in the middle of Paris. But 30 minutes later we were out the far side. How does that work? Imagine trying to cross central London in that time? We were also rewarded with a panoramic view of the Paris skyline at one stage which was mighty fine.

From there we headed on to the Loire valley where we have now camped up on the banks of the river in the very pretty town of Blois. Had a peek around the town (and a sneaky beer) and its a real find.

This is our first ever night of "wild camping" but it's not as wild as all that - just parked in an aire by the river. Still, we're not in a campsite and we're totally self sufficient with running water, electricity off the leisure battery and the internal heater to come if we need it.

It seems I've made a bit of a boo boo too. I've left the camera at home even after Mrs Blakey reminded me to pack it. Twice. Oops. Just have to hope the blackberry camera does okay.

Thing we noticed was good with the Cali today: because the kitchen is low you can access it all sitting down. Which meant no need to pop the roof at lunchtime. Definitely better than the old kitchen in the last van.

Time for a proper real ale carried from England I think.

Sent from my ZX Spectrum.