Spent the last 2 days hanging around Sagres in true surf bum style. This place is a Mecca for surfers and the place is packed with beaten up old vans with every beach having half a dozen or more parked up in the car parks. Lots of people here are clearly just living on the beach fronts. Looks like a fantastically free way to live. But then it's been 22+ celsius and a ten foot swell so we're catching it at a good time.
Yesterday we went and watched some guys surfing 10'+ waves just north of here. Saw someone get barrelled for the first time. Pretty awesome sight. It was cool to sit out on the headland almost at the lineup and watch them do their stuff.
Today we found a sheltered cove with a 4' swell and spent the day on the beach. I hired a 7' foamy. Far too small for me. It was a bit of a mare but I had fun and caught a few nice rides. Would have loved a longboard but I don't think it would go in the van! Might try tomorrow as I think the plan is much of the same. It's good to be based somewhere for a short while. Mrs Blakey was sunning herself on the beach - it's biki weather here - and moaning about not being able to bodyboard this year.
Cali comment: there are loads of em here! Every other surf van is a VW (of course) and every third VW is a Cali. We still have the only British one I've seen so far but there have been ones from Italy, Germany, France and Portugal.
Sent from my ZX Spectrum.
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