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Sunday 13 November 2011

Southern Europe - Day 9

A religious day today.

Well it is Sunday and all these places are free on a Sunday. We began the day in Tomar a place which we'd gone to because of the castle of the Knights Templar and my love of things historical, especially things from the times of the Crusades. We weren't expecting anything of the town but were hugely impressed.

A stroll round town last night and it was nice enough to sit outside and sup a few beers. Then a chinese which was massive. We did contemplate "black pudding rice with turnip growths" but were too hungry to risk not liking it.

Anyway, having seen the town last night - and loved it - all we had planned for this morning was a look around the castle and attached monastery. The castle was build in the 12th century
and the monastery added on from about the 15th century. It was a huge labyrinthine place, easy to get lost in. The central chapel dating from the 12th century was in near perfect condition with colourful murals still on all the walls. It took us nearly 2 hours to see the place to our satisfaction and even Mrs Blakey really enjoyed the visit - these places definitely being more my thing than hers.

As we left Tomar we detoured briefly to see the Pegoes aqueduct which fed the castle. A 17th century feat of engineering which was incredible to see.

From there we set our TomTom to Lisbon via Fatima and as the afternoon wore on we arrived at the sight of the apparitions of Mary to three shepard children as recently as 1917. Its quite a sight with the plaza in front of the basilica being twice the size of St. Peters Square in Rome - where we visited on tour last year. In 1972 they built a new church on the site opposite the basilica. This church seats 9000 people - an amazing sight although it looks a bit like a conference hall inside. Its very modern with zero character.

All in all the thing which most struck me as we walked back to the van was that every shop in town was full of religious memorabilia. It seems a shame that a place that could and should feel somehow special and holy seems instead to be dominated by people trying to cash in on the apparitions and make money from them. Its all a bit seedy to me.

From Fatima we drove the 100 miles or so south to Lisbon in the dark but were rewarded with a stunning sound and light show as we drove through a massive electrical storm. Somehow this felt more religious and primal than a bunch of shops selling plastic figurines.

Cali thought for the day: we reckon they should have split the cover which tops the cooker and sink. It would make dinner prep and washing up much easier if you could independently drop each one.

Tomorrow: Lisbon.

Sent from my ZX Spectrum.

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